Click here to proceed toYOUR CART / CHECKOUT
Please Pardon Our Dust: We Are Currently In the Process of Building Our New Site. Please Give Us A Call if You Have Any Questions

Sandpaper Grit Guide: Charts for Metal to Wood to Paint

Sandpaper Grit Guide: What You Need to Know

Sandpaper is an essential but often underrated tool that can help you finesse your drywall, woodworking, and metal projects. If you’ve ever tried to purchase some at your local hardware store, you’ve likely noticed that it comes in many different grit sizes, which can quickly become overwhelming. Sandpaper grit size will affect your finished project’s quality, so it’s important to know how and when to use which size. 

Here’s a basic sandpaper grit guide to help you decide which grit is best for you.

What does the Sandpaper Grit Size Mean?

Contrary to popular belief, sandpaper grading size does not refer to the size of the abrasive materials but rather how many particles can fit through a 1 square inch filter. The larger the particle, the fewer can fit through at once. 

Globally, the two standardized sandpaper grit charts are the Coated Abrasives Manufacturers Institute (CAMI) and the Federation of European Producers Association (FEPA). CAMI is used mainly in North America and FEPA in Europe. Sandpaper is labeled on the back with the grit size. If there is a “P” in front of the grit number, for example, P300, then you know it follows the FEPA grading system.


Sandpaper Grit Ranges 

Sandpaper grit ranges can be divided into two types: micro and macro grit sandpapers. Micro grits are primarily used on wood and some drywall, whereas macro sandpapers are used on tougher metals and hardier wood because they have a more robust clearance. Below is an essential sandpaper grits guide:

 

Micro Sandpaper Grit Guide

Ultra Fine

Ranging from 800 to1000 CAMI or FEPA P1500, this grit has incredibly delicate abrasives and should be used in the final sanding stages or when polishing thick finishes.

Super Fine

Ranging from 400 – 600 CAMI or FEPA P800 – P1200, this fine-grit sandpaper slightly wipes away patches and/or minor inconsistencies but isn’t strong enough for complete removal. Superfine grit is usually used for final wood finishing.

Extra Fine

Ranging from 360 – 320 CAMI or FEPA P400 – P600, extra-fine sandpaper should be used during the initial wood polishing stages.

Very Fine

With a 240 CAMI or FEPA P240 – 360, very fine sandpaper is the least abrasive and is best used when applying sanding finishes between consecutive coats when working with drywall or wood.

 

Macro Sandpaper Grit Guide

Very Fine

Coarser than very fine micro sandpaper and with a CAMI of 150 – 220 or FEPA P150 – P220, this sandpaper can be used to sand down fine wood.

Fine

Ranging from a 100 -120 CAMI or FEPA P100 – P120, this sandpaper cannot remove varnish or paint on wood and is better used to prepare wood for finishing, cleaning plaster, and removing water stains on wood. 

Medium

With an 80 CAMI or FEPA P60-P80, this grit sandpaper leaves a medium to coarse surface texture after sanding. Ideally, it’s used for sanding bare wood to prepare it for removing varnish and final finishings.

Coarse

Coarse sandpaper grit has a CAMI of 40 – 60 or FEPA P40-50. It removes hardy material rapidly and easily wipes away debris or helps with finishing with minimal effort.

Extra Coarse

Ranging from CAMI 21 – 36 or FEPA P12-36, an extra coarse grit removes the most material the fastest. It should be used during the initial stages of hardwood floor sanding or on surfaces that require intense treatment.

As you’ll see on any sandpaper grit size chart, the different grades of sandpaper have various quality abrasives. Most jobs require a range of grits as you progress. In addition, you’ll also have to choose between “open-coat” and “closed-coat” sandpaper. 


As a rule of thumb, “open-coat” paper doesn’t clog and is usually used for wood. Sandpaper grit charts are a great tool to help you determine what kind of paper you need for the job at hand; however, they don’t always specify which grit material is best.

Sandpaper Grit vs. Material 

There’s more to a sand paper grit chart than just the size of the grits. You should also be aware that there are five main types of sandpaper abrasives, all with different uses:

Aluminum Oxide

This common paper is used for woodworking projects. It’s primarily used in power sanders, such as an orbital sander, because of its durable nature; however, it doesn’t leave a nice finish and should only be used in the initial sanding stages.

Silicon Carbide

This paper is usually dark gray or black and is used for finishing metals or “wet-sanding.”  It is seldom applied to woodworking.

Garnet

Garnet paper is brownish-red and commonly used in woodworking. While it doesn’t sand as fast as other papers, it leaves a better finish and is a great choice for finishing sanding.

Ceramic

This paper is one of the most durable and can remove large amounts of material quickly. It’s commonly used in belt sanders and can also be used for hand-shaping wood. It leaves a rough finish and should be applied with caution to veneers or plywood.

Glass

Also called flint paper, glasspaper is very light and pale yellow. It disintegrates fast and is usually used for paint removal.

 

The Perfect Finish

At Plastic Materials, we have an impressive range of sandpapers for every application and project, whether it’s industrial-scale or simple DIY. Give us a call, and we can help you with all your sandpaper grit guide questions. Better yet, click here to purchase the best sandpaper for your project. Our premium-grade sandpaper is guaranteed to help you achieve the perfect finish. 

Vacuum Infusion Process: Step-by-Step Guide for Resin Infusion

Vacuum Infusion Process: What You Need to Know

Vacuum infusion, also known as resin infusion, is a cost-effective and environmentally friendly process for making high-quality composite parts used in the aviation, marine, and energy sectors, as well as smaller DIY projects like boat-building. It uses vacuum pressure to create quality products and is one of the best methods for molding large structural components. 

What is the Vacuum Infusion Process (VIP)?

The Vacuum Infusion Process (VIP) is a technique that uses vacuum pressure to drive resin into a laminate. Materials are laid dry into a mold, and the vacuum is applied before resin is introduced. The resin is infused into the mold cavity to wet out the materials and core during the vacuum infusion. Carbon fiber and fiberglass are mold materials commonly used for this process.

Benefits of VIP

While hand lamination is faster and relatively easy to execute, vacuum infusion has many advantages. It’s cost-effective, delivers better quality, and is safer for the environment. Vacuum infusion molding forms a closed mold process and reduces the number of styrene emissions, which can pollute the environment when not properly filtered. 

Even though it requires a longer set-up time, bottom-line comparisons reveal that when labor and mold longevity are taken into account, vacuum infusion is quicker because the process (not the set-up) is easier. It also has a lower tooling cost than other closed mold techniques.

During the resin infusion process, the resin is under constant vacuum pressure and is not influenced by manual labor.  Voids are reduced to a minimum, and there is little wastage. With the vacuum infusion process, the fiber content is higher, increasing the stiffness and strength of the resulting product.

Shortcomings of VIP

Most of the disadvantages of vacuum infusion are linked to the process’s long set-up time and general handling. Unlike hand lamination, vacuum resin infusion requires one to strategize and develop the optimal vacuum ports and resin injection locations for each composite that is made.

Furthermore, it also requires an experienced hand and can become expensive if there are continuous vacuum leaks as the entire part will have to be binned. Its cosmetic finish is also not as good as open mold processes due to the fabric print; however, this can be amended using a barrier coat.

At this stage of the process’s development, vacuum infusion is more suited to smaller projects. Too much time is required for applications that need high production rates or more complex processes on a mass scale. This is especially true when multiple-use flexible films or top molds are needed for one-off or large parts. 

 

Preparation: Everything You Need for the Vacuum Infusion Process 

While it’s not rocket science, resin infusion techniques do require some skill. In large industrial productions, trained technicians oversee the process. However, it is possible to perfect the technique with research and practice. Below are the basic materials and equipment needed: 

Materials

Generally, polyester, vinyl ester, and epoxy resin tend to work best. When it comes to fibers, most conventional fabrics can be used, although we’d recommend fiberglass or carbon fiber as the gaps in the material allow the resin to transport well.

Equipment

There are four main pieces of equipment, besides resins and fibers, needed to successfully carry out the vacuum infusion process.  These include:

Vacuum Pumps

You will need to select the appropriate resin infusion vacuum pump to create the correct pressure. While all pumps require regular oil changes and blowdowns, the type of pump most suited is an oil-sealed, single-stage rotary vane vacuum pump. These pumps are available at most pump manufacturers and are produced by a variety of brands.

Vacuum Tubing

Vinyl tubing is a good choice as it’s strong enough to maintain its form under pressure without collapsing. Tubing with a ½” inner diameter allows for maximum flow during infusion application.

Resin Traps

Resin traps are vital to the safety of the vacuum infusion process as they are placed in line to catch excess resin. If not caught, the resin can destroy your vacuum pump. Large-scale projects usually utilize multiple resin traps.

Spiral Tubing

Spiral tubing is needed for vacuum line extenders or resin feed lines. Make sure you buy tubing that complies with resin infusion standards. 

Step-by-Step Guide to the Vacuum Infusion Process 

Bear in mind that each fiberglass infusion project is unique and will require variation depending on size and scale. Below are the basic steps: 

  1. Prepare the mold: Place good quality mold, reinforcements, and core flow material in the desired position.
  2. Set-up resin and vacuum lines: Ensure the network of lines reaches all areas of the laminate and can drain the resin effectively. 
  3. Attach the vacuum bag: The vacuum bag should be tight but allow enough room for tubing. 
  4. Attach the pump and set up the resin bucket: Ensure your resin bucket is properly secured as the pump will produce a strong suction during the vacuum resin infusion. Turn on the pump once everything is in place.
  5. Clamp off resin line: When the laminate is wet out, you can clamp off the resin line to complete the infusion. 

Have a project that requires vacuum infusion? At Plastic Materials Incorporated, we have a range of products from core materials to tubing to help you put together the ideal vacuum infusion kit. Give us a call or click here to start building your kit today!

SORIC®: THE CORE MATERIAL SOLUTION

How Lantor Soric Core Material changed the process of Infusion

Our partner 3A Composites has delivered another top-quality product to our list of available core material options here at Plastic Materials, Incorporated. Lantor Soric® is the core material solution in composite parts for the Wind industry. Flexible infusion core for optimal flow behavior and weight reduction. Extra interlaminating flow and controlled and stable flow front. Soric® SF is a general-purpose grade for thin laminates. This grade balances resin flow with surface quality. The honeycomb structure formed during the process provides good shear properties. For product details go to https://plasticmaterials.lfdm.co/brands/3a-composites for more information, or call one of our technical sales representatives at Plastic Materials, Incorporated.

What is the Best Release Agent for Epoxy Resin?

. While many resins are designed to be easily removable from various metal molds, the resin that sticks can damage a mold or the actual resin product. Resin mold release is an essential tool if you work with resin and create your own products. Used correctly, resin mold release agents will enable you to separate your project pieces from your molds safely, ensuring that neither your molds nor your castings become damaged.

Fiberglass Boat Repair Costs – DIY Solutions

The depth of the damage will dictate how you’ll approach the repair. Is just the outer layer damaged or does the inner fiberglass core need repairs too? If it’s just the gel coating, you should be able to sand it down and apply a fresh coat. However, if the core has been damaged, it will need to be filled. You’ll know that the fiberglass core has been breached if you see fiber strands.

Search for products

Back to Top
Product has been added to your cart